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When
you go into a dealership, you want to know all of the pricing and costs of the
car that you are looking into buying, as mentioned earlier.
You
should know the manufacturer’s cost and the dealer’s cost.
You
need to calculate the cost that the dealer paid for the car and then make a
reasonable offer to him if you want to get somewhere.
You
should also know that the dealer’s price is not the invoice price from the
factory. You should know that the dealer’s cost is much lower than the
factory’s cost.
In
order to make a fair offer to a dealership, you need to learn to read a
factory’s invoice. Here is what you can expect to find on the factory invoice.
- Base
model of the car on it
- All
of the options packages
- Destination
charge
- Holdback
and dealer flooring help
Quick
Tip: DO NOT confuse the invoice with the MRSP window sticker because they are
not the same.
Contrary
to popular belief, dealers don’t have to tell you the invoice on any car. This
often gives the dealer leverage over you.
They
can offer you one dollar over the invoice. You should know that there are hidden
factory incentives in the invoice price that lowers the cost of the car for the
dealership. It’s no bargain for you.
If
a dealership is very quick to show you the invoice, you should be aware that
they are fully aware that they will be making money on that car off of you and
they can settle at a lower price for the car.
Knowing
this before you walk into a dealership can be your best negotiating strategy.
See, they will tell you that you can afford to buy the car at MSRP hoping that
you will not then wonder what the actual worth of that car is.
Knowing
this information can let you make them the same offer.
If
you offer a few dollars over the factory invoice (which is the actual worth of
the car) then you can open your bid and let them know how much profit they can
make off of your offer. Check out these websites if you want to know the factory
invoice of a car.
http://www.InvoiceDealers.com
http://www.CarsDirect.com
http://www.Car.com
http://www.Autoweb.com
Dealers
are always going to try and tell you that they paid less for the cars than they
actually did so that they can make a higher profit off of the sale.
Salesmen
often try and make you feel guilty by telling you “I’m losing my shirt off
of this deal”.
In
truth, you are the one that is losing your shirt off of the deal, so don’t buy
into it.
To
calculate what your offer should be to the dealership, you should get the
factory invoice price (don’t forget to include the options in this price), and
add 5% to that amount. That is how you should calculate your offer the
dealership.
When
I mention the options, I mean the ones that you can’t avoid. Some cars come
equipped with a CD, sun roof etc. and these are fees that you can’t avoid
paying so sure to account for these at the beginning.
You
should also be sure to account for any buyer rebate
s as well in calculating your offer. So in the end your offer should be
calculated like this:
DEALER’S COST + 5% - ANY
BUYER REBATES = YOUR OFFER
Calculating
your offer to a dealership is as simple as that. When you are considering how
much you can afford for a car, be sure that you don’t get sucked into paying
more than that.
If
you are unwilling to pay more than your opening offer, let the salesman know
that your offer stands firm and how they will profit from the offer.
In
the end you will get what you want on your own terms. To be certain that you get
the drift I will set an example for you.
You
are hoping to buy a Toyota Camry. You do your research at DealersInvoice.com,
and find that the invoice price is $19,922; MSRP is $22,385. The dealer may
offer you the car for $22,000, and shows you the invoice.
You
learned by researching that there is a $500 factory to dealer incentive; and a
$447 holdback on the MSRP (2%).
Based
on the above calculations, the dealer’s real cost is $19,922 (invoice) - $500
(incentive) - $447 (holdback) = $18,957. This is far below the factory invoice
number.
Now,
if you add the 5% for your offer to that price, which will up the car price to
$20,379 due to the addition of $455 for the destination charge that is always
present, you will see that based on the offer that the dealership offered, you
just saved yourself $3410.
This
may seem complicated but if your use a pre-designed spreadsheet from
CarsDirect.com or AutoUSA.com, the program does all the calculation for you.
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